New Mexico Mountain Club
Technical Climbing Section

 Leader Qualification Check Sheet

  

NAME: ________________________________________________________________

The following may be witnessed by any NMMC member of Climbing Leader standing. Tests will be administered only to persons holding basic climbing qualifications. Any test which is not completed satisfactorily must be repeated at a later date.

1. Participate in four roped climbs of at least four pitches each, demonstrating satisfactory teamwork in rope handling, rotating belays, signals, hardware retrieval and general observance of safe climbing practices. 

2. Demonstrate proper setup of upper and lower belays, using trees, boulders, nuts, and other climbing hardware. Belay using either hand, aiming belay properly and holding static falls. 

3. Demonstrate the ability to pass a knot on rappel.

4. Set up a secure self-equalizing anchor using three points of protection. Demonstrate proper technique for rappelling from this anchor. 

5. Obtain a standard Red Cross first aid certificate or equivalent. Renew as necessary to maintain certification. 

6. Demonstrate two different high angle rappel techniques.

7. Demonstrate the ability to lead a class 5 pitch, showing proper placement of anchors, protection, nuts, runners, and proper use of carabiners. This should be performed on four different dates. 

8. Attend two field practice sessions of a mountain rescue organization, or participate in two actual rescue situations. 

9. Pass a written test on general mountaineering. Texts: "Freedom of the Hills" and "Mountain Search and Rescue Techniques" or any other texts on the subjects of mountaineering and search and rescue. 

10. Obtain the signatures of four climbing leaders for the following:

In our judgement, the above named individual has demonstrated sound judgement and the leadership and technical skills that qualify him/her to lead technical rock climbs for the New Mexico Mountain Club. 

LEADER RATING ISSUED:

Date __________ By _____________________________
Climbing Chairperson