ALFA NM Touring Tips

 The following is intended for Alfisti who will be traveling through New Mexico. Any other Alfa owner may find the info interesting and informative. This page was authored by me, Jim Roth, for Alfa Owners Club of New Mexico, and is accurate to the best of my knowledge.

The scenery in northern New Mexico is stunning, the food is great, the history near the surface, and the roads beckon your ALFA. You can see for hundreds of miles at times. June is the best time for exploration. The weather is generally pleasant and the gully-washers of the monsoon season haven't yet begun. If you are driving here, there are also many other trips you can take along the way in New Mexico. Old Route 66 cuts across the middle of the state, although much of it is covered by I-40. A diverse topography covers the south with White Sands in the desert and the Gila Wilderness in the mountains. Everywhere you look, there is something different, unusual, and beautiful.

Also, it seems, there is always something good to eat. New Mexican cuisine is different from the Old Mexican style you may be used to. Chile (the vegetable, NOT chili, the Texas meat-and-bean concoction) is the mainstay of most traditional dishes. Green, which varies in heat and is fresh and flavorful, or red, which is dried, ground and generally pretty hot, gives stews, soups, even ice cream a unique piquance. It seems chile can be an ingredient in just about everything!

There are many descendants of the original Spanish explorers and colonists. Many small towns in northern New Mexico look very much like the towns left behind in Old Spain. In other areas of the state, particularly in the plains, you will see the vast ranches developed over the last 150 year since our Territory, then State, became a part of the US. The original inhabitants, our Native American population, is also as diverse as the topography. From the Navajo and Ute in the Four Corners area to the Apache, and Pueblo peoples, they have much to offer through their culture, history, and crafts. And not a few casinos. The long vanished or assimilated Anasazi have left us many wonders to explore and discover. No matter what your interests, your stay here will be enlightening and exciting.

If you are in or going through Albuquerque, don't miss the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center operated by the 19 Pueblo Tribes of New Mexico on 12th St, 1 block north of I-40.

Here are some good NM links, guides, special interest books,and recommended trips:

Try this site for some excellent links to NM: Route 66

Fellow Alfisti only: For specific information on trips, roads, etc.., feel free to e-mail me, Jim Roth. I'll answer what I can or direct you to a source of info: Alfisti@CompuServe

READ THIS -Special Northern NM mountain driving tips: When you see the old "Falling Rock" sign, don't take it for granted (but you should take it for granite!). The wide temperature swings between day and night often pop rocks out of vertical surfaces and onto the road. The road is not strewn with them, but you probably will see a number--just be aware. I can give you a name of a good wheel shop back east if you goof as I have.

If the monsoons come early, be aware that water will bring all kinds of rock and debris across even a well traveled road. And NEVER try to cross an arroyo (ditch) if a storm is in the area, even if a paved road goes through it. A wall of water from a distant thunderstorm can and has taken many lives in the southwest.

The lead cow pictured eventually came all the way to my front bumper and stared at me for about a minute while depositing about a quart of drool on my Milano's hood.

If you get off the main roads, some of the lesser paved ones are a lot of fun. Just be aware that this is a very rural state and you're likely to come across a herd of cattle standing in the middle of the road around a blind corner. Or a farmer on a tractor, or a goat, or an elk which can really ruin your day, car, and life.

If you manage to get a ticket, the ones from the tribal police probably won't make it to your record, but will cost you more. Other ones will, so be careful. Our police are spread a little thin once out of town, but once they got you, they got you.

And if you've had a little too much to drink, ask another Alfisti to drive you as there's no shame in NOT bending up you car.

NOT recommended driving style for Northern NM, except during autocross events.

RECOMMENDED BOOKS,GUIDES, TRIPS

I've aimed my short narrative at trips outside Santa Fe, as I'm sure the literature provided to you through AOCNM or your lodging will cover that pretty well. This is for when you want to hit the road. Below, I have listed some of my favorite trips. They offer a lot if your time is limited. There are many more you can take. If you read about another area or trip in one of these publications that piques your interest, send an EM and I'll fill you in: I've taken many of these trips myself.

The following books are available from their publishers, your local bookstore, or from the following source: (most books shown and many more on NM and the SW are in stock)

Otowi Station Bookstore and Science Museum Shop, 1350 Central Avenue., Los Alamos, NM 87544

(505) 662-9589 or E-Mail bkstore@otowi.com

Web Page: Otowi Bookstore

"NEW MEXICO HANDBOOK" 4th edition. 1997. Moon Travel Handbooks, ISBN 1-56691-086-2. Moon Publications, PO Box 3040, Chico, CA 95927-3040

If you want to buy only one book, this is it! Its trips are organized by area and show a good short history, list of attractions, recommended restaurants and lodging for each area covered. Very nice travel guide for the whole state!

Favorite Northern NM Alfa trips:

(Combo of two from the book) : Santa Fe-Taos-Eagle Nest-Cimarron-Las Vegas-Santa Fe. Can be done in one day, but two is better as you can actually stop and see something. If driving twisty mountains roads is your thing and you don't care much about stopping, this will work for you, as well as the next trip.

Of special interest is the town of Cimmaron. You come to it via Cimarron canyon, a wonder in itself. Cimarron means "wild" or "untamed' in Spanish and this was a pretty wild town in its day. Make sure you visit the St. James hotel where many a gunfight was fought and many a bad guy or other western character has stayed. There are pictures on the wall to show you where a famous person slept for the night or for the last time. 26 people met their end here in the 1870's. Look for the bullet holes in the ceiling. You can even stay here and check out the history, but no murders have occurred lately.

You can also make a little shorter "Enchanted Circle" trip with Taos as the start and finish point. Taos is about 1.5 hours north of Santa Fe. This trip goes past the DAV's Vietnam Veteran's National Memorial near Angel Fire.

Not technically Northern NM, but a super drive, anyway. The "Turquoise Trail" from Santa Fe to Albuquerque via NM 14 and the old mining towns of Madrid (maa'-drid - the "maa'-" rhymes with the "da" in "dad") and Cerrillos (seh-ree'-ohs -a town often seen in "old west" movies such as "Young Guns"). You'll note that some Spanish words have taken on a pronunciation of their own: not English and not Spanish, either. Stop at the Mineshaft Tavern in Madrid for some old western bar atmosphere and, it's claimed, the best Margarita in the state. From the state pen to Golden, the road can be tricky, narrow, curvy, and wavy. Some folks just like to drive slowly, so be patient.

And, of course (since it's my town and I can plug it if I want to), if you want to see ancient technology/history and modern whiz-bang technology/history all in one spot, then a trip to Bandelier National Monument and Los Alamos' Bradbury Science Museum is a must. Los Alamos/Bandelier is about 45 min from Santa Fe. While you're here, take the Los Alamos-Jemez Springs-San Ysidro-Albuquerque trip discussed next. A really GREAT drive..

"EXPLORING THE JEMEZ COUNTRY" Roland Pettitt. ISBN 0-941232-10-7. Los Alamos Historical Society 1990, Pajarito Publications, Los Alamos, NM 87544

This book describes what can be found in the Jemez (hay'-mez) mountains, the ones immediately to the west across the Rio Grande valley from Santa Fe. They really are the remains on one monstrously large extinct volcano, the top of which seems to have blown as far away as Kansas. It has been estimated by some (this is in dispute) that these mountains used to be in excess of 27,000 ft in height, but since the big boom (don't fret-a million years ago) they are closer to 11,000 ft now. Most of the roads and trails described are not suitable for your Alfa, with one big exception: NM 4 from Los Alamos to San Ysidro. This is one great drive, folks. Some nice twisty parts on good highway through spectacular scenery and unusual geology. Some of the best anywhere, all in one drive through four climate zones. A MUST DO!

Los Alamos-La Cueva-Jemez Springs-Jemez Pueblo-San Ysidro-Albuquerque. The road twists and rises out of the Bandelier Monument through Ponderosa pines. A spectacular view of the Rio Grande valley and the southern Rockies from Albuquerque to Santa Fe to Taos can be seen in the first mile or so of this climb. Santa Fe itself is clearly seen before you, even though it's 30 miles away. The turnout (actually only a car-width at the apex of the curve) is on the opposite side of the road on a blind corner, so go up the hill a bit, find a suitable turn around, and come back to it. Make sure you have plenty of film and some binoculars. When leaving, go down the hill to the intersection and then back track. It's the only safe way to do it. If you are coming from the Albuquerque side, never mind all this as it's on your side anyway, just don't shoot past it.

Continuing on toward La Cueva, you twist and turn up the outside edge of the Jemez. At some point after crossing into Sandoval County, you will be able to see Sandia (big mountain next to Albuquerque) on your left. If it is near dawn or dusk, you can plainly see the streets lighted there! It's over 50 miles away at that point, so don't try to get out and walk. You will continue along through Ponderosa and Aspen forests until your drop into the big one! One of the largest calderas on earth! The Valle Grande is over 16 miles across. An unforgettable sight, it's covered with grass and is forested on the center resurgent domes. Unlike most of the other areas you have been driving through, this is (for now) private land and unspoiled as no one is allowed on the property. You can view plenty from the road, however. During the summer, it is leased out to ranchers to fatten their herds and during the winter, it is amazing to see that much unspoiled snow. If you drive by right before sunrise, you will likely see elk grazing with the cattle.

Past the Valle Grande a few miles you will see Conchas Campground on your right along the East Fork of the Jemez River. A nice place to go if you gotta go. Don't explore this nice pleasant spot, however, as about 1/2 mile further down the road is a paved pullout also on your right, next to where the river next crosses under the highway. Put on your walking shoes or hiking boots and walk along the river for a while. It is a nice, easy trail, so even you flatlanders shouldn't get too winded at 9,000ft. This is truly a wondrous place (babbling brook, steep canyon walls, tall trees, open meadow, trout) so don't miss it. I mean it.

Continue driving to La Cueva where NM 4 veers off to the left. You can stop for lunch here as there is a small restaurant that serves decent food or you can continue on down the road a short while to Jemez Springs where there are several very good watering holes/eating spots. WARNING: In the town of Jemez Springs, going 26 in a 25 is nearly a capital offense, so be careful. You will notice a very pungent sulfer smell along this road from time to time. This valley is rife with hot springs. Right before you get to Jemez Springs is Soda Dam. Pull off and get out. With their mineral deposits, a series of hot springs have made a 300' natural dam across the Jemez River. Very surreal plus there is a cataract at its end where the river has broken through. Don't be tempted to jump into one of these churning pools, as a slight miscalculation has meant death or injury to several swimmers in the past few years. There are several things of note in Jemez Springs, including several religious order retreats (Roman Catholic & Zen Buddhist), a State Monument (old Spanish mission), and a hot spring bath house (soak your tired bones). Continue south through the bosque (boss'-kay -wooded lowlands along a river).

After leaving Jemez Springs, and before you get to Jemez Pueblo you will come across a turn off (NM 485) to the right to CaÒones. If you have any time at all, take this side trip as you will be amazed and gratified at what you'll find. This paved road winds through several small settlements and at times you will swear that you're driving through someone's back yard. You're not, of course, so just stay on this road. Eventually you will once again enter public land. At this point, you are traveling on the roadbed of an old narrow-gauge line which was used to haul lumber in the 1920's. Continue along this road and you will soon be next to the Guadalupe River. The road continues through two rough-cut railroad tunnels. Immediately after the second tunnel, park you car on the right and enjoy the cool waterfalls. These drop a couple hundred feet through the narrow gorge that you're in. After you've cooled off, return the way you came and continue on.

Jemez Pueblo is an active Pueblo Indian village. There is a visitor center and plenty of places to buy art, jewelry, and (most important) food. Try the fry bread. Respect the privacy of those not involved in commerce.

Continue your drive down to San Ysidro and NM 44. You are now in the desert. The police in San Ysidro also jealously guard the maximum speed limit, so watch your speedo. Take NM 44 into Albuquerque or to I25 and then 40 miles north to Santa Fe.

A note: Most maps show that NM 126 from La Cueva to Cuba open during the summer months. It is a dirt and mud road not generally suitable for an Alfa. I know this because the old maps showed it as a good road when I first came here with my Milano 8 yrs ago. The trip from Cuba started nicely enough, but I only made it through by sheer luck. There was EASILY 200 lbs of mud stuck all over the bottom of the car and in the wheel wells. Whew! And the rocks. And the washboard. Boy.....

"THE MAGIC OF BANDELIER" David E. Stuart, 1990. ISBN 0-941270-56-4. Ancient City Press, PO Box 5401, Santa Fe, NM 87502

A very good short book on the history and culture of the ancient settlements you can visit at Bandelier and also others in NM. You should read this book before you visit.

"ROUTE 66 ACROSS NEW MEXICO-A WANDERER'S GUIDE" Jill Schneider & D. Nakii,1991. ISBN 0-8263-1280-2 University of New Mexico Press, Albuquerque, NM

This is for you RT 66 buffs. Goes into a lot of detail on old US66 in NM as well as what you can find now. If you are driving through from the west or east on I-40, this will make your trip more meaningful. Rio Puerco, El Rancho Hotel, The Club Cafe, Zuni, Laguna, The Chicken Pull at Acoma,...it's all here.

"FOLLOWING THE SANTA FE TRAIL-A Guide For Modern Travelers" Marc Simmons,1986. ISBN 0-941270-38-6. Ancient City Press, as above.

And while were talking about old roads, this one's just about the oldest. This book covers the Santa Fe trail from Missouri to Santa FE. For those of you coming from that direction, following the trail would be fun. If you are coming from the north at all and are entering NM on I-25, then you're on or within spittin' distance of the Santa Fe trail.

"DAY HIKES IN THE SANTA FE AREA" SF Sierra Club,1990. ISBN 0-9616458-1-4, Santa Fe Group, 621 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, NM 87501

"THE HIKER'S GUIDE TO NEW MEXICO" Laurence Parent,1991. ISBN 1-56044-064-3, Falcon Press,PO Box 1718, Helena, MT 59624

When you feel the need to park your Alfa and take a hike, these are some nice guides. One for the SF area and one for the whole state. Bring your hiking boots and water bottle.

"MOSAIC OF NEW MEXICO'S SCENERY, ROCKS, AND HISTORY"Paige Christiansen,Frank Kottlowski, Editors 1972. 3rd Edition, 5th printing 1988 New Mexico Bureau of Mines & Mineral Resources, Socorro, NM 87801

"ROADSIDE GEOLOGY OF NEW MEXICO", Halka Chronic,1987,7th printing 1995. ISBN 0-87842-209-9. Mountain Press Publishing Company, PO Box 2399, Missoula, MT 59806

Hard to tell which one I like better. "MOSAIC.." covers a broader subject area to include local inhabitants and plants as well as a little human history. "ROADSIDE.." is tuned almost strictly to the geology and is laid out to follow the roads. Thus, you can follow the road and the book at the same time. Better yet, let some one read it to you as you drive along lest you smash into one of those geologic features.. These books aren't as dry as they might sound. "ROADSIDE.." is dedicated to "Two old fuddy duddies and one kid cousin."

"FLY-FISHING IN NORTHERN NEW MEXICO" Graig Martin, Editor 1991. ISBN 0-8263-1290-X. University of New Mexico Press, Albuquerque, NM

If you want to fly-fish while you're here, this is still a pretty good guide. Some access has changed since 1991, so check locally.

"FOUR CORNERS, History, Land , and People of the Southwest" Kenneth Brown, 1995. ISBN-06-016756-4. Harper-Collins Publishers, Inc., 10 East 53rd St, New York, NY 10022

Very nice and readable overview of the history, land, biology, and people of the Southwest, especially, NM, AZ, UT, and CO.

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