Tool shaped objects are those that have the appearance of being actual tools, but are not sharpened and "tuned-up" to be the useful, safe, effective tools we need them to be!

He covered the differences between the various sizes and angles that determine the different planes available today. He indicated the inter-dependency between the plane, the planer and the workbench. The latter should be designed to fit the individual at the appropriate height to allow the body of the user to provide the force to the planing, shaping, drilling, working of the objects we craft. SFCC offers a workbench making course lasting some 80 hours and incorporating a $120 vice or two, $350 in maple, plus the cost of the course. He is amenable to arranging a course for us, and I suppose this is an invitation to respond to me (rderganc@hotmail.com) or to Marv (marvz@swcp.com) so we can assess interest and take the next step, if enough people respond affirmatively.

Since you can’t talk about planes without talking about sharpening, Michael mentioned:

Grinding angle, hollow grinding, Japanese planes, a diamond wheel dresser, Norbide sticks, slowing-down the normal 3250 rpm grinder speed to 1725 with a variable speed control device, and the clearance angle between the bottom of the plane blade and the bottom of the base plate.

If you get "chatter", you might want to narrow the gap between the frog and the edge of the blade. You can ink the back of your blade and slide it on the frog to find high spots (scratches) in the ink. Then file them down to support the blade better and reduce chatter.
A reference for plane mechanics is: Garrett Hock’s Mechanics of Planes.
Also, Fine Woodworking has a plane book and Ron Hock’s web site listing blades he sells.

To use a plane effectively, Michael mentions:
Apply pressure to the Plane going forward, lift when pulling-back
Do the opposite for Japanese planes, which are pulled toward the operator
Use scrap wood to compensate for uneven or canted handscrew of the vice, so the object isn’t pinched (held at an angle) in the vice
Hold and operate the plane at an angle to use only a portion of the cutting edge and thereby cut more easily, especially in hardwood.
Be aware some tools put more emphasis on appearance than on function. While beautiful, they don’t deliver as much service for the dollar as less costly, functional tools.
Use a floor pad for safety, grip and ease-of-back. It’s easier on the tool if dropped, also.
Use your legs, not your arms to push the plane. Use your feet as the radius point. Your back will thank you!

Michael recommends the following DMT (Diamond Technologies) "stones" for "touching-up a blade that’s already ground correctly: 600 … 1200 … 4000.
He is not a great proponent of stropping as it tends to round-over a newly sharpened edge.

Michael treated us to a Plane Making Preview, however it was quick and my notes are sketchy.

He indicated the SFCC course spans 8 weeks and results in the students making one wooden plane. The body is often maple and the sole of a harder wood such as bubinga, bloodwood, rosewood, goncalvo. The grain direction of the stock is important.

You must select the screw, frog, blade, cap, etc.

The 12/4 stock is cut into the three basic body parts. The particular ‘iron’ is chosen as a trade-off of all the things you’d rather not compromise: hardness, corrosion resistance, edge-holding ability, rigidity, ductility.

This presentation and the opportunity to handle the various planes Michael brought with him, made this an unusually inspirational meeting, encouraging us to travel to Santa Fe for one of the courses offered in woodworking. Or to arrange for Michael to consider holding a course down in Albuquerque!

Web site for The College of the Redwoods

Fine Woodworking Magazine Issue #126 OCT97 Dave Welker article.

Hoch Irons (this may be Hock Irons) handmade knives and planes

Sharpening by Leonard Lee

Web site: www.taunton.com