We’ve all seen and heard about hand-cutting dovetails and much like cutting your own veneer, one questions the amount of time spent in achieving acceptable results. Herschel demonstrated that with care and attention, it is indeed possible to get acceptable results, without making too much kindling! He does however recommend starting with long boards, at least in the beginning.

Why dovetails? To add mechanical strength to a frequently used joint, as well as to increase the glue surface. Please Note: your fit should not be so tight that upon test fitting, you leave the joint assembled, rather than attempt to separate it and add the glue! You need the glue for a long lasting joint. The tails on the drawer sides allow the pins to lock against the motion of the drawer. The opposite arrangement exists on a cabinet, where the force of gravity acts downward. The use of different woods in the joint has great visual appeal. Keep the coefficient of expansion of the two woods in mind or split dovetails will likely be the result. Also flatsawn and quartersawn woods will expand at different rates. Discouraged, read-on, it gets easier!

In a rut? Do all your dovetails (dts) look the same? You can add character to your piece by making hand-cut dts with different sizes and spacings. Then woodworkers will know you did it yourself! Feeling the pressure of peer review and that snicker when they see your Porter-Cable dts?

That’s why Herschel has come to appreciate slowing down, reducing stress and learning to enjoy the task at hand. To that end, he recommends hand-cutting dovetails.

First the types: Through Dovetails: the most common and the subject of today’s presentation.

Half-Blind Dovetails: Only visible from one direction (side) not from the front, (e.g.. as used in drawers).

Second, the terminology: The TAILS look the same from both sides. The PINS are sloped and therefore different in appearance from each side.

Third, the tools: Keep Them Sharp, Keep the sharpening equipment handy and Use It! Some woods require chisel sharpening every few strokes. Japanese saws cut on the pull stroke and are more controllable as the cut keeps the blade in tension.

Marking Gauge – reshape the adjustable pin to wedge shape for finer line.

Japanese. thin kerf, backed, pull saw, generally disposable blade or reduce the set of a good backsaw. ZONA was cited as a cheap model makers saw (approx. $5 at hobby stores).

Japan Woodworker also a source, as is Toshiro’s of Seattle for disposable blades.

Chisels – need metal ferrules for striking and tapered sides for fit. Herschell uses 800 – 6000 – 8000 grit waterstones for sharpening his chisels. Diamond paste and a flat steel plate was also suggested. DMT diamond stones were deemed to be "not flat enough." Hollow grind western chisels only!

Knives for marking – slender metal edge, beveled on one edge only recommended.

Bevel gauge to run the markings around the edges. 5H lead in a mechanical pencil.

The Preparation – Ends square, faces parallel, uniform thickness of pieces being joined, decide on the angles to be used and the spacing between dovetails. Angles in the 78 - 83° range workout best. This translates into a 1::5 or a 1::8 ratio rise to run on the dovetail. Softwoods steeper, hardwoods shallower, to control pin breakage.

What to cut first? Herschel recommends cutting the pins first, then using then as templates for the tails. Mark all the sides first, lightly on the inside and indicate which sides point outward. Mark the pins to taste (angle, spacing, number, etc.) then cut them out.

Use the pins to mark and cut the tails, leaving the line, so if you need to increase the opening for the pins you have material to remove. Shade the waste area. Check against the pins – twice!

Allow extra length in the side in case you have to cut off your first dovetail attempt! Allow extra material for the height (approx. 1/32") of the drawer, in anticipation of the sides not aligning perfectly. You can then trim the top or bottom to fit the opening in the table frame.

In general, a drawer needs to be longer than it is wide. This results in a more stability when pulling the drawer out.

Drawer sides can be ¼" thick, with the front thicker than the back.

Ready for sawdust? After placing the stock LOW in the vice, start to saw at a high angle. Cut down to the scribed line. Use a chopping block clamped the work piece and having a sandpapered surface, to align chisel vertically and to minimize movement while chopping out the waste. Cut from both sides when removing material. Use the appropriate chisel (not too large for the opening size). The Limit is the size of your smallest chisel. Use a light mallet and a light stroke.

Create a V, clean-out from the front. Use a knife to clean-up the corners, Herschel doesn’t file at all!

Are We Done Yet?

Ha Ha Ha, Fitting takes the most time, as always! Fit compress, look for shiny wood where friction compressed the wood fibers. Trim, fit, relax and don’t forget the glue!

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